Despite the heavy rain and grey rainclouds over London, this season London pulled out all the stops. Dazzling bold colors, western inspired themes and statement accessories are taking a cue from decades past. At London Fashion Week AW19 there were the looks that reminded of a recent past all over again. The skirt suit is back, the golf sweater has undergone a high-fashion makeover and the puffball dress is about to up your eveningwear game. The trends that came up unexpectedly are hereby,
The Return of Peplum
This flattering up-top shape that sees fabric fall from the waist to the hipline is perfect if you want to look like you’re stuck in 2013 or even the ’80s. But, now It is back, according to Christopher Kane. The designer championed a more modern approach to the classic silhouette by adding an extra waist-cinching addition over a simple white dress. Try the look at home by placing a mini skirt over a midi-dress.
Not dissimilar to the peplum, this styling trick has long been employed to draw focus to the waist. It’s a very old tactic yet has found itself on the catwalk of JW Anderson, one of London’s chicest arbiters of taste for AW19. The bigger the belt the better, was the message. Style it with baggy trousers and an oversized knit to keep it modern, no ’00s reference in sight.
Gloves are on
At Shrimps, at Richard Quinn, at Erdem, at Richard Malone – gloves are set to be big news next winter. But these aren’t the kind to keep you warm; these are the kind to add an injection of old-school glamour immediately. Just consider how one will use their phone if wearing them.
P.E Kit Glamour
The pieces we threw in our kit bag and swung over our backs would now be seen as haute fashion. Riccardo Tisci has long been the king of bringing sportswear to the catwalk and the latest iteration to note is the polo shirt Gigi Hadid wore for her Burberry debut. Just add a corset over dress or shirt and there you have the trend right.
At Fashion East, Gareth Wrighton presented landscape knits in tiny proportions for a spin on the look. Pick a landscape, choose a colour scheme and opt for a pattern at least two sizes down.
The Glitter Poncho
Throw on a Molly Goddard crystal poncho says the LFW AW’19, t o the park or to the office. This is the way to spark joy we never knew we needed.
Bows made their debut at the London SS19 collections, with designers adding subtle romantic twists to their ready-to-wear and beauty looks. For the autumn/winter 2019 collection, bows have kept their place on the sartorial scene, with Erdem and Roksanda making their case for the statement bow. Giant bows returned to the Erdem catwalks in a collection inspired by 1960s Rome. The brand used the trend to experiment with a voluminous style of grandeur and Roksanda also offered voluminous bows, this time tied around the models’ necks for a dreamlike quality. Emilia Wickstead offered plenty of bow-themed hair accessories.
The prim skirt suit (beloved of female politicians and Royal dignitaries everywhere) has returned with a new youthful verve. While Riccardo Tisci showcased the appeal of meadow green and a sculpted waist for his tailored co-ords, Richard Quinn wowed with opulent beading and Wales Bonner championed the power of modesty.
The revitalised trench coat was spotted leading the street style charge, as well as on the runways at LFW. Glossy patent (seen at Simone Rocha), voluminous sleeves (JW Anderson) and re-spun heritage checks (Burberry) make the classic mac this and next season’s most worthwhile investment opportunity.
The shiny Diamonds
When it comes to next season’s after-dark wardrobe, all eyes are on diamanté fringing. Cue Molly Goddard, Christopher Kane and Riccardo Tisci at Burberry, who all created hedonistic runway treats that hark back to turn-of-the-Millenium dance floors. While Kane adorned shirting and pencil skirts with oversized stones, Tisci made the belt-fastened sports dress worthy of a Beyoncé red carpet appearance.
Back in February 2016, the laced corset belt became an Instagram hit thanks to Prada’s AW16 canvas design, styled over utility jackets and jacquard dresses. Fast forward to this season and the influence of the full corset (spotted on the runways of London’s young designers) is spearheading a fearless approach to femininity. Vivienne Westwood is the unofficial godmother of the corset’s modern rebirth, having launched her take on the 18th-century classic back in the mid-1970s, as part of the fetish collections for her Sex boutique on London’s King’s Road.
Big Puffy ball
While New York Fashion Week was about ballooning sleeves, London has turned its attention to ballooning dresses. Richard Quinn and Erdem delivered the power-floral puffball dress (in Quinn’s case, styled atop rubberised bodycon), while Simone Rocha and Roksanda saw a cleaner take on the bubble-hemline silhouette.